Eater by Eater

Author:Eater
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Abrams
Published: 2023-09-19T00:00:00+00:00

CHAPTER

5

HOW CHICKEN ACHIEVED MUST-ORDER STATUS

In the early 1980s, the late chef Judy Rodgers’s Zuni Café in San Francisco started offering hearth-roasted chicken for two. The restaurant had just installed its now-famous wood-burning oven, and, as Rodgers told Eater back in 2013, “the circumstances and the inspiration collided.” She had been thinking about her time living in France, when a spit-roasted chicken could easily and reliably feed her for days—and she wanted to ensure the restaurant didn’t become a pizzeria. The Zuni Café chicken for two established roast chicken as a restaurant-worthy meal. In the years that followed, a slew of roasted birds became icons in their own right: the salsa verde-topped roast chicken at Jams and then Barbuto; Balthazar’s poulet for two; the A.O.C. Ode to Zuni roast chicken in Los Angeles; the foie-gras-stuffed-and-basted beauty at the NoMad.

Fried chicken also landed front and center on menus. At Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York’s East Village, chef David Chang made a special event out of fried chicken in 2009. Diners raced to nab a limited number of reservations for a feast of Southern-inspired and Korean-style fried chicken. Fried chicken became a hip restaurant calling card. At Red Rooster in Harlem, chef Marcus Samuelsson pays thoroughly modern homage to classic Southern fried yardbird, while at Toki in Portland, Oregon, chef Peter Cho goes gonzo, topping twice-fried wings with ramen seasoning. Of course, specialists still, um, rule the roost, so don’t sleep on digging into a plate of Nong’s Khao Man Gai, where chicken is part of nearly every component on the plate.

Let the work these chefs have put into orchestrating thrilling chicken dishes make your own chicken dinners that much better.

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